Guide: Which vintage watch should you buy?

Buying a vintage watch can be an exciting adventure, but it can also be intimidating given the wide variety of models, brands, and eras available. This article will guide you through the main criteria for choosing a vintage watch that suits your tastes, style, and budget, while avoiding the classic pitfalls.

1. Define your expectations

Style and use

Are you looking for a dress watch for special occasions or a more robust watch for everyday use?
Do you prefer an elegant, sporty, or bolder style?

Budget

Set a price range before you start your search.
Keep in mind that coveted vintage watches such as the Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster can fetch high prices, but it is possible to find attractive alternatives.

Brand

Iconic brands such as Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Patek Philippe offer truly desirable gems.
Less well-known brands, such as Citizen or Lip, may offer equally charming models at more affordable prices.
Don't underestimate the manufacturers and small brands that disappeared during the quartz crisis in the 1970s and 1980s.

2. Essential criteria for choosing a vintage watch

Authenticity

Make sure the watch is original and has not been modified with non-compliant parts (avoid “Franken watches”).
Don't hesitate to consult a vintage watch specialist, whether professional or amateur.

Condition

Examine the condition of the dial, case, and movement. Unless it is NOS (New Old Stock), a vintage watch will inevitably show signs of wear.
A patinated dial can add a lot of charm if it is evenly patinated.

Taste

It is important to choose a watch that you like and will enjoy wearing.
Other people's opinions and market value are secondary criteria: buy a watch for yourself!

Size

Vintage watches are often smaller (33-38 mm) than modern watches.
Don't necessarily stick to a specific size: try on vintage watches at collectors' or professionals' shops to see what suits you best.

3. Avoid pitfalls

Buy trust, not just a watch

Choose trusted sellers who can guarantee the authenticity and condition of the watches they offer.
At LumeVille, we can accompany you on this adventure.

Don't sacrifice quality for price.

Low-priced watches may hide poor-quality, non-original parts or mechanical problems.

Conclusion

Buying a vintage watch is a rewarding experience that allows you to own a piece of watchmaking heritage. Take the time to clearly define your needs, carefully study the features of the watch you desire, and choose a trusted seller to ensure a smooth transaction.

 

This article is part of an ongoing exploration of vintage watches.
I offer independent analysis and private inspections for collectors.

Have a great time on the website!

Joshua Grillet