Seiko SKX vs. SRPD diving watch: Spot the 7 differences

Joshua Grillet

A legendary watch versus a new contender for the title?

 

 

Ah, the Seiko SKX... A watch loved by the vast majority of collectors!

How many terabytes of SKX wristshots are there on Instagram, Facebook, and forums?

Both are huge commercial successes, but which one will win your heart? The version released in 1996 or the one released in 2019?

 

lumeville blog montre vintage seiko plongée diver

lumeville blog montre vintage seiko plongée diver

Throughout the photo comparison, the SKX009 will be on the left or top and the SRPD53 on the right or bottom.

Here is an overview of their seven differences, starting with the dial.

1. The dial

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

The SKX009 features a matte dial with no real relief except for the application of LumiBrite, Seiko's luminescent paint.

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

The dial of the SRPD53 is much deeper with its sunburst finish and circled hour markers. A plus point for the 5KX!

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53 lumeshot

A “lumeshot” reveals that there is no real difference in luminescent performance between the two watches.

2. The movement

lumeville seiko NH35 4R36 7S26

The SRPD is powered by a Seiko 4R36 movement, which is an evolution of the SKX's 7S26 caliber.

It adds manual winding of the barrel spring and a stop-second function. And that's another big plus for the 5KX.

But from now on, it's going to have a tough time!

Let's move on to examining their cases.

3. The bezel

The SKX is definitely a diving watch, while the SRPD is more fashion/urban-oriented.

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

The addition of a LumiBrite bead on the SKX bezel makes it fully functional. The SRPD does not have this feature, and its graduation is also lighter.

4. The crown

lumeville blog montre vintage seiko plongée diver

The diver's watch features a screw-down crown, whereas the SRPD has a simple crown.

5. The case back

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

A solid background and a beautiful design reminiscent of “The Great Wave off Kanagawa” by Japanese painter Hokusai against a transparent background.

6. Spring bars

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

This comparison is nothing particularly original, but this detail is never mentioned. Goodbye “fat bars,” hello pumps without notches, designed to fit better with the case with pierced lugs.

7. The bracelet

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53 bracelet acier

Jubilee versus Oyster, the big debate even at the brand with the crown!

Personally, I prefer the finesse of the Jubilee, even though the Oyster is higher quality.

Are these bracelets interchangeable? Yes, but only by replacing the spring bars with more versatile versions.

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

The “Fat Bars” do not fit into the case or the end pieces of the SRPD bracelet, and if you make the mistake of putting the SRPD pins on the SKX, you will not be able to remove them because they do not have notches to accommodate a tool and the SKX does not have pierced lugs.

lumeville blog montre plongée Seiko SKX009 contre SRPD53

 

Conclusion

I can already hear the die-hard fans saying, “They've ruined the SKX, it's a disgrace,” “Reducing the water resistance from 200m to just 100m is a deal-breaker for me,” or “It's a cheap version of a legendary watch.”

My opinion: The SRPD offers some nice aesthetic improvements, but with less water resistance, admittedly. Nevertheless, it remains a nice evolution of the SKX.

I've been scuba diving  and after nearly 100 dives, I'll let you in on a secret: divers use dive computers, not watches. It's not really relevant. On dive boats, you won't find any SKXs, Rolex Submariners, Omega Seamasters, or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. If you ever see a dive watch on a diver's wrist, I can tell you that he's one of us, a true watch geek with whom you'll enjoy having a drink.

(This statement isn't entirely true, but it's far from false.)

What about you? Are you more on the ultra side or the progressive side?

 

This article is part of an ongoing exploration of vintage watches.
I offer independent analysis and private inspections for collectors.

Have a great time on the website!

Joshua Grillet

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