Glossary of vintage Rolex watches: Dial patinas

Today, we're going to talk about the lexicon used by vintage Rolex collectors. This lexicon does not come from Rolex itself, but rather from US watch forums where the world's greatest collectors battle it out with wristshots.

If this topic proves popular, we will continue with other articles on the lexicon of Rolex collecting, a world rich in minute details.

Some names for patinas obviously apply to other watches, but this vocabulary generally originates from collectors of vintage Rolex watches.

Here is an overview of these highly desirable imperfections!

Spider

Spider dials occur when certain series of defective lacquered dials crack over time, forming a beautiful spider web pattern.

Credit : Xupes

Tropical

These are generally black dials that develop a brown tint over time. The lacquer deteriorates, revealing a tobacco, caramel, or coffee-colored dial.

Credit : Tropicalwatch.com

Stardust

A patina found on black or blue dials. Wear on the dial reveals small dots reminiscent of a starry sky.

Credit : Chrono24.com

Lava or Volcano

This is a patina characteristic of Rolex Submariner and GMT-Master watches in gold from the 1980s, with a beautiful lava red effect.

Credit : luxuo.com

Cream or Panna

This is an error by dial supplier Stern that affects certain Explorer II and Daytona models. It is also known as ivory patina or eggshell.

Credit : loupethis.com

Patrizzi

Cette patine porte simplement le nom du collectionneur qui l'a découverte, Osvaldo Patrizzi. Il s'agit des sous compteurs qui virent au marron. On la retrouve sur certaines Daytona 16520.

Credit : 41watch.com

David Bowie

This patina refers to the different colors of the hour markers depending on their shapes. Why David Bowie? Because he had the distinctive feature of having different colored eyes.

Credit : oyster-passion-club.org

Copper

Copper refers to the coppery patina that certain gold-colored dials can develop.

Credit : Phillips.com

Salmon

Unlike the coppery hue, these are silver-colored dials that turn salmon-colored.

Credit : bulangandsons.fr

Bicchierini

This is the term used by Italian dealers to describe lacquered dials with circled hour markers that have a tritium patina ranging from fresh butter to caramel or orange in color. The translation of this word referring to desserts made with vanilla, caramel, or coffee...

That was a technical one!

Credit : mpreziosi.it

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These aesthetic flaws, which are deal-breakers for some, become treasures for others. But the debate is endless...

Sources : oyster-passion-club.org 41watch.com

 

This article is part of an ongoing exploration of vintage watches.
I offer independent analysis and private inspections for collectors.

Have a great time on the website!

Joshua Grillet