Tudor Submariner 79090 vs Rolex 1680: The Last Acrylic Submariner Ever Made

A complete reference guide to the Tudor Submariner 79090, the neo-vintage Submariner that kept the Rolex 1680 construction philosophy alive until 1996. Written from the workshop by a certified watchmaker, with the three authentication checks every buyer must run before handing over a single euro.

1. The Submariner Rolex Stopped Making in 1980 And Tudor Kept Alive Until 1996

In 1980, Rolex discontinued the reference 1680 and replaced it with the 16800. The 16800 introduced the first major construction break in the Submariner line since 1953: sapphire crystal, upgraded water resistance to 300 metres, unidirectional bezel with click stops. Over the next decade the line would continue modernising, the 14060 (1989), the 16610 (1988, date), the 114060 (2012), each generation moving further from the acrylic-crystal, painted-dial tool watch that had defined the Submariner since the late 1960s.

Tudor went the other way. When the 79090 launched in 1989, Tudor chose to preserve the entire construction grammar of the Rolex 1680: acrylic crystal, painted matte dial, folded Oyster bracelet, 200 metres water resistance, friction bezel. The 79090 stayed in production for seven more years, finally ending in 1996 with the arrival of the 79190, which switched to sapphire, unidirectional bezel, and closed the chapter.

The result is a paradox. The Tudor Submariner 79090 is, factually, the last acrylic-crystal, 200 m, friction-bezel Submariner ever produced under the Rolex umbrella, sixteen years after the Rolex version of that same watch stopped being made.

2. Shared DNA: 79090 vs 1680 Spec Sheet

Place the two watches side by side and the construction choices are nearly indistinguishable:

Every tactile, structural, and cosmetic element of the watch is shared : crown, caseback, crystal, dial treatment, hands, bracelet construction. The only meaningful divergence is the caliber, Rolex in-house 1575 vs ETA-based Tudor. Case diameter, crystal, dial, crown, caseback: all shared. On the wrist, the feel is indistinguishable.

3. The One Construction Difference That Matters

Identical does not mean equivalent. One detail of the Rolex 1680 sealing architecture is absent from the 79090, and it affects how the watch ages.

On the Rolex 1680, a rubber gasket sits in a dedicated groove machined around the crystal. It is held in place by a retaining ring that sits beneath the rotating bezel.

The 79090 does not have this gasket-in-groove architecture. Over thirty years of wear and humidity exposure, the consequence is visible on many surviving examples: oxidation traces at the base of the crystal, especially on watches that have never been fully serviced. It is, in our workshop experience, the single most reliable indicator of a 79090 that has lived its life outdoors and never been opened by a watchmaker.

For a buyer, the implication is practical: a 79090 with a clean crystal-base interface has almost certainly been serviced within the last decade. A 79090 with visible rust or oxidation at that interface is a watch that needs immediate workshop attention, budget €400-600 for service.

4. The ETA 2824-2, Tudor-Modified

Beneath the Rolex-signed caseback, the 79090 runs on an ETA 2824-2. But labelling it "a stock ETA", as some casual references do, is wrong. Open the caseback and you see what Tudor actually did:

• KIF shock protection, not Incabloc. It is the single most diagnostic feature of a genuine Tudor-modified 2824-2.
• Tudor-signed and decorated rotor, engraved cleanly and finished, not the plain stamped rotor of a standard 2824-2.
• Perlage finishing (fine circular graining) on the movement baseplate, a cleaner finish than a stock pharmaceutical-grade 2824.
• Tudor-modified regulator system for fine +/- rate adjustment. Not the stock ETA regulator, a Tudor-specific component.
• The base caliber reference "ETA 2824-2" remains engraved under the balance wheel, visible when the balance is lifted during service.

The practical consequence for an owner: the movement inherits the serviceability of the 2824-2 platform, parts available worldwide, any competent watchmaker can service it. This is one of the rare situations in vintage collecting where "better than the base" is technically verifiable under a loupe.

5. How to Spot a Fake Tudor 79090 : Three Non-Negotiable Checks

The Tudor Submariner 79090 is among the most faked neo-vintage watches on the market. Dial reproductions are competent. Caseback replicas are readable. Three checks separate a genuine 79090 from a convincing imitation.

Check #1 — Open the caseback.

This is the single rule that matters: never buy a Tudor Submariner without opening the caseback. The movement is where Tudor's modifications live, and those modifications are nearly impossible to fake economically. Look for:

• KIF shock setting on the balance wheel jewel, never Incabloc. If the shock setting has the characteristic Incabloc clip, the watch is either fake or has had a stock 2824-2 substituted during an unauthorised service.
• Tudor signature on the rotor, engraved, crisp, centered. Fakes typically use stamped or laser-etched rotors with softer, less defined edges.
• Perlage finishing (circular graining) on the baseplate, clean and regular. Not absent or roughly machined.
• The base reference "ETA 2824-2" engraved cleanly under the balance wheel position. Visible during service when the balance is removed.

Check #2 — The bezel pearl.

On a genuine 79090, the luminous pearl at the 12 o'clock position of the bezel is tritium in an acrylic pearl, set directly into the aluminum bezel insert. There is no metal ring around the pearl. 

On many fake 79090 examples, the pearl is surrounded by a thin metal ring. This is the most frequent visual tell at arm's length. If there is a metal ring around the bezel pearl, the insert is not a genuine 79090.

Check #3 — The caseback engraving.

The inside of the caseback reads "ORIGINAL OYSTER CASE BY ROLEX GENEVA", centered around the Rolex crown logo. On every genuine 79090, this text is engraved only, never painted, never filled with black ink. The engraving is shallow and appears silver against the brushed steel.

Fakes almost universally fill the engraving with black paint to make the text more legible in photographs. If you see black-filled lettering on the inside caseback, the watch is fake, regardless of how convincing the dial or bracelet may be.

The Golden Rule

Three checks, one rule: you never buy a Tudor Submariner without opening the caseback. Dial authentication, bracelet verification, serial-number checks, all of these can be faked to a buyer-convincing standard. The movement cannot. The caseback engraving cannot. The bezel pearl construction cannot. Insist on seeing all three, or walk away.

6. What a Properly Serviced 79090 Looks Like

A 79090 that has been through a competent workshop differs visibly from a 79090 that has not:

• No oxidation at the crystal base. A serviced watch has had its crystal re-seated with a fresh gasket, and the crystal-to-bezel interface is clean under magnification.
• Accurate timing : a freshly serviced Tudor-modified 2824-2 should run within +/- 4 to +/- 8 seconds per day. Anything worse indicates a movement overdue for intervention.
• Smooth crown winding, no grinding, no skipping. The Rolex-signed Triplock crown seals against three o-rings; all three should be replaced during a full service.
• Bracelet link articulation restored. The folded Oyster 9315 stretches with age. A serviced bracelet has had stretched links replaced or re-pinned; the clasp closes with a clean, audible click.

7. Market 2026: Parallel Trajectories, Not Convergence

Based on observed transactions over the past twenty-four months:

• €4,000 – €5,000: unserviced example, cosmetic wear, questionable provenance, missing accessories
• €5,000 – €6,500: honest example, serviced within 5 years, original dial and bracelet, partial accessories
• €6,500 – €8,500: excellent condition, fully serviced, full-set, sharp unpolished case
• €9,000+: exceptional near-NOS condition, complete archive, original papers

The Rolex 1680 in equivalent condition grade trades at €15,000 – €25,000. The gap is substantial, consistent, and contrary to what some forums suggest, not closing.

The 79090 is not "the 1680 that will catch up." The Rolex Submariner 1680 is the Rolex Submariner 1680, pricing is driven by the depth of the Rolex collector market, which has no parallel at the Tudor tier. What is true is that both references appreciate at roughly the same rate. A 20% move on the 1680 tends to produce a proportional 20% move on the 79090. The spread stays constant.

The 79090 is a watch for two kinds of buyer: the connoisseur who values the shared DNA and doesn't need the Rolex crown on the dial, and the pragmatist who has done the math. Both are correct. Neither is buying a consolation prize.

FAQ

What movement is in the Tudor Submariner 79090?

An ETA 2824-2, modified by Tudor. Modifications include KIF shock protection (replacing Incabloc), a Tudor-signed and decorated rotor, perlage finishing (circular graining) on the baseplate, and a Tudor-modified regulator system for fine rate adjustment. The base reference "ETA 2824-2" remains engraved under the balance wheel.

Is the Tudor 79090 the same size as the Rolex 1680?

Yes. Both references measure 40 mm across the case. Lug-to-lug, thickness, and lug width are equally identical due to the shared Oyster case architecture.

What is the difference between the Tudor 79090 and the 79190?

The 79190 replaced the 79090 in 1996 and introduced sapphire crystal, a unidirectional bezel with click stops, and a modernised sealing architecture. The 79090 is the last vintage-spec Tudor Submariner. The 79190 is the first modern one.

Will the Tudor 79090 appreciate in value?

It has, consistently, over the past decade. It will not converge with the Rolex 1680, the two move in parallel, not in catch-up. Expect steady appreciation at the rate of the broader vintage Rolex-ecosystem market, not explosive gains.

How can I spot a fake Tudor 79090 quickly?

Three checks. (1) Open the caseback: KIF shock setting on the balance, Tudor-signed rotor, perlage-finished baseplate, ETA 2824-2 engraved under the balance. (2) Bezel pearl flush-set in the aluminum insert with no metal ring around it. (3) Caseback engraving visible, never painted black. All three checks are physical. 

Currently Available

A Tudor Submariner 79090 from 1995 is currently available in our Besançon workshop. Matte black dial in original condition, Mercedes hands with period-correct tritium patina, Rolex-signed Triplock crown, engraved caseback, and the original folded Oyster reference 9315 bracelet. The Tudor-modified ETA 2824-2 has been fully serviced in our workshop, KIF shock setting verified, rotor decoration preserved, timing regulated within specification, Triplock crown seals replaced. 12-month watchmaker's guarantee.

Further Reading

• Which Vintage Watches Increase in Value? 2026 Collector's Guide
• 10 Iconic Vintage Watches That Have Stood the Test of Time
• Vintage Rolex Dial Patina Glossary applicable to 79090 dials
• Browse our current vintage watch inventory

Written by Joshua Grillet, certified watchmaker, LumeVille workshop — Besançon, France.