Which vintage watches increase in value?

Investing in watchmaking heritage is a decision that can be motivated by a love of history, beautiful objects, style or, for some, the potential for financial gain. But not all vintage watches increase in value over time. So which models and brands offer the best potential for appreciation? This article explores the factors and characteristics of vintage watches that increase in value.

1. General criteria that influence value

Brand and reputation

Certain iconic brands, such as Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, are consistently sought after. Their rich history, manufacturing quality, and prestige help maintain or increase their value.

Rarity

A model with limited production can become highly prized. Rarity stimulates demand, especially if the model is associated with a historical event or a notable collaboration.
Sometimes, a watch's rarity is due to its failure to sell. This is precisely the case with the 4-digit Rolex Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402ST. These models sold very poorly when they were launched, but today they are snapped up at high prices.

Condition and authenticity

A vintage watch in its original condition, with its original parts, will always have a higher value. The presence of original documents and the original box is also a definite asset.

Market demand

Trends play an important role. Certain periods (the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s) or styles (chronographs, diving watches, military watches) are particularly sought after.

History

If a watch was worn by Steve McQueen or James Bond in a blockbuster movie, it will inevitably be of interest. The same goes for great adventurers, explorers, politicians, or singers who left their mark on their era. Certain designers are renowned for their designs, such as Gérald Genta, Gilbert Albert, and Jean-Claude Gueit. Their watches are all the more desirable for it.

2. Examples of vintage watches that increase in value

Here are a few well-known examples that remain relevant today:

Rolex Submariner

This iconic diving watch is highly prized by collectors. Older models, such as the 5513 or the 1680 with its “Red” variants, have seen their value skyrocket over the years.

Omega Speedmaster

Known as the “Moonwatch,” the Speedmaster is a must-have for vintage watch enthusiasts. Pre-1970 models, especially those with historic 321 calibers, are in high demand.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

This model embodies sportiness and elegance. Patek Philippe watches, thanks to their limited production and exceptional quality, are among the safest investments.

3. How to choose a vintage watch with high potential

Do your research

Before buying, it is crucial to fully understand the model, its history, and its current popularity. Specialized forums and experts are a valuable resource.

Prioritize original condition

An authentic, unmodified watch always retains its value better. Be wary of watches that have undergone major modifications or contain non-compliant parts.
Even those with recent authentic service parts see their value decline.

Buy a seller, not just a watch

It is essential to deal with a trusted seller. This guarantees the authenticity of the watch and avoids unpleasant surprises. At LumeVille, we offer carefully selected vintage watches that have been lovingly restored and come with a warranty.

Conclusion

Not all vintage watches increase in value, but those that meet the criteria of quality, authenticity, and rarity can be excellent investments. If you are looking to purchase a vintage watch with high potential, it may be best to seek expert advice.

This article is part of an ongoing exploration of vintage watches.
I offer independent analysis and private inspections for collectors.

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Joshua Grillet